06 Dic HOUSE OF MORANDÉ: WHAT HAS CHANGED BETWEEN 1997 AND 2025?
It is always an enormous pleasure to lead vertical tastings of House of Morandé around the world. On these occasions, beyond being able to tell the story of how this Bordeaux-style blend emerged — as emblematic as its creator, Pablo Morandé — I have the opportunity to communicate and explain how we have adapted to changing times, both in style and in climate, while preserving the identity, quality, and longevity of this wine that is so special to Viña Morandé.
Since its first vintage in 1997, House of Morandé set out to innovatively and modernly represent the full potential of Alto Maipo through a world-class wine that is elegant and long-lived.
To that end, it was born as an assemblage anchored by Cabernet Sauvignon, with the contribution of Cabernet Franc, and complemented by red varieties that enhance its depth and balance. It was at the foot of Cerro Chena, in San Bernardo, on the soils of the third alluvial terrace—rich in gravel and clay—where we found the structure and minerality that have always defined this wine’s character.
Do we have a vivid, still-alive testament to the strength of this terroir, and to the modernity and longevity we have sought from the beginning? Yes. It lies in the 1999 vintage: the oldest still available on the market and the only one made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. More than two decades later, it remains striking: it reveals fruity and dried-herb notes, tobacco, spices, firm yet velvety tannins, lively acidity, and a persistence marked by graphite and licorice.
Over the years, however, we have faced significant changes in climatic conditions. We have had warmer summers and drier winters, with occasional exceptions in 2010, 2011, 2018, and 2021. In 2014, I had the honor and the challenge of taking over the winemaking direction of House of Morandé precisely at a moment, when rethinking practices was essential in order to preserve the wine’s identity while still guiding it into the future.
It is important to say that, when crafting a wine meant for aging, strength and finesse compete, vintage after vintage, for protagonism. Thus, this process has been — and continues to be — one of great learning.
Starting in 2014, and even more clearly from 2017 onward, I introduced important adjustments in vineyard management: earlier harvests, tighter irrigation control, and canopy work that allowed us to capture freshness and aromatic precision even in warmer years. We also began incorporating about 15% Cabernet Sauvignon from the El Romeral vineyard, which shares with San Bernardo the perfect combination of a warm-temperate Mediterranean climate, with a dry and extended summer.
In the winery, we focused on combining barrel aging with the use of French-oak foudres, which come from both France and Germany, with a light toast. After spending 12 months in traditional French 225-liter barrels, the wine rests an additional winter in these large vessels, which give it a more elegant tannin integration and a more refined aromatic profile. And before reaching the market, we let it rest one more year in the cellar.
What is curious is that, since 2017, we have returned somewhat to the spirit of the Cabernets of the mid-1990s: lighter in alcohol, with a more restrained concentration, and a reduced predominance of new oak, gaining in balance and persistence.
I see that the evolution of House of Morandé has gone hand in hand with the maturity of the Vineyard — and also with the times. I reaffirmed my conviction that what truly governs a wine is its origin, its climate, its soil. And I believe that the current era moves increasingly in the direction of wines guided by balance and measured concentration rather than by extraction or power. In this way, the wine maintains its important profile, which improves with time in bottle.
Today, I can say with conviction and joy that House of Morandé is a wine suited to the present day and, at the same time, faithful to what it has always been: a wine of stature, built to engage beautifully with time.